After 2-nights in Pondicherry we were ready to head towards Chettinad and set out early for our destination for the day, Kanadukathan. During the drive we realized that there seemed to be some change in the scheduled itinerary. Several times during the drive our driver Mohan was on the phone with our main facilitator estimating our arrival time at The Bangala, our hotel in Karaikudi and he told us we were trying to get there in time for lunch.

As a result we failed to stop in Tanjore for a visit to the “giant” Brihadeeswara Temple and then for lunch in a nearby restaurant. Over the entire 4 ½ hour drive, we made one 10-minute stop for a bathroom break and to take on some fuel but other than that we drove with some haste and did make it there around 1:15 PM.

We were led to our room, which was on the 2nd floor and had a wide terrace with comfortable seating overlooking a part of the garden and the pool in a central courtyard. We only had a few minutes before lunch but we found the room to be large, spotlessly clean and well-furnished. We absolutely loved the bathroom. The design was modern and was perhaps the most functional bathroom of any hotel we have ever stayed in.

We would have enjoyed relaxing a bit but we were on a timetable. By 1:30 we were seated for one of the best meals we had on the trip.

The Bangala and the owner Meenakshi Meyyappan are well known for their authentic Chettinad cuisine served as a traditional South Indian “banana leaf meal”.

Service begins with a large leaf placed in front of each diner. First a large scoop of rice was positioned in the center and then a procession of servers brought one dish after another placed in small piles in 2 rows across the leaf; one on each side of the fold. Both Veg and Non-Veg (aka with meat) options are available and we took the Non.

The most charming Ms. Meyyappan stopped by our table to give us a little history lesson and to tell us what each dish was but to be honest, we were so overwhelmed we failed to note them all so I’m not 100% sure of everything we ate but it was all good and in many cases, the first time we had ever eaten the particular dish. One that did impress us enough to remember was a delicious beet salad. And the breads, mango chutney and other condiments were equally as good.

After lunch we had a few minutes before leaving on our afternoon tour of the small city of Kanadukathan, considered the heart of the Chettinad region and home to the Chettinad Royal palace and the mansions of wealthy elite.

The Chettinad people originally came to this region from Kaveripattinam following a devastating flood in the 13th century. They were traders who initially traveled across the region but eventually extended their range to include virtually all of Europe. In the 19th century, they expanded their fortunes by developing a banking industry and proved a valuable resource to the local Royals.

Since tourists are not allowed inside the Royal Palace our viewing was only from the street but from there we traveled a few blocks to the Chettinad style mansion of the family of Ms. Meyyappan (the owner of The Bangala.)

Our guide explained that while Ms. Meyyappan had received a family inheritance, that traditionally the oldest male off-spring received the family mansion but that now, the upkeep of those mansions was almost more of a burden than an asset to the owner.

Like many of the fine historical homes in the area it included architectural touches from the width and breadth of the Chettinad trading regions like the teakwood column from Burma shown in the above right photo.

Many of these homes include Italian marble, Belgium mirrors, Venetian chandeliers, British metal work as well as some local prized products like Indian Rosewood furniture and Athangudi Tiles.

Make no mistake; these mansions were ostentatious displays of wealth and no embellishment was too large or too small to be added on top. However, the now more modern lifestyle of the region really doesn’t support such massive homes and many are now vacant and have fallen into disrepair. But the influence that these early traders had on the artisans of the area is still felt by the textile & basket weaving trades as well as in other artistic endeavors.

We saw that in our next stop of the day at Sri Mahalakshmi Handloom Cotton Weaving Center in Kanadukathan. The scene was a bit different from what we had seen in Kanchipuram a few days earlier. In Kanchipuram there was a long street with single weavers in each house while at Sri Mahalakshmi there was a large open room full of looms. And while in Kanchipuram there were small showrooms in the front room of multiple houses but at Sri Mahalakshmi there was a large showroom with lots of offerings from different weavers to choose from.

Additionally where in Kanchipuram the main material was silk, at Sri Mahalakshmi the weavings were virtually all 100% cotton.

But the designs and prices were really very attractive. There happened to be a group of women from Delhi who were on a girls trip to Chettinad also staying at The Bangala and we had been sharing a guide with them on this afternoon and quite a few of them purchased multiple saris.

We came home with a very nice, very reasonably priced blue bedspread and a most excellent shopping bag that is now a big hit with the cashiers at our local food co-op.

By this time it was getting late in the afternoon and we weren’t able to stop at The Athangudi Tile unit but we’ll have something to look forward to on our next trip to Chettinad.

We headed back to The Bangala and while relaxing in the comfortable furnishings on the terrace in front of our room it seemed appropriate that we enjoy a Bombay Saphire Gin & Tonic and then to swim a few laps in the very brisk pool.  After that there was little to do but return to the dining room for the lavish spread of another even more impressive banana leaf meal that featured mostly entirely different dishes than had been served at lunch.

For this meal the dessert was a house made ice cream and when my wife commented on how good it was, the gentleman who had made it was brought out of the kitchen and gave her a 2nd portion.  And then came back and asked if she wanted thirds.